Well let the build begin (cont)....

Fellow Earthlings,

Again, apologies for the gap in blogs. Yet again, less interesting things, like work, continue to consume my precious time...

Right, now where was I. Ah yes. The last build session, part 2. The below is work I did in the first session.

The cranks...

At first I wondered what the hell I got myself into when I opened the installation instructions. Seriously. WTF!?

After getting my head around which diagrams were applicable to me I got stuck into it and found it was actually quite simple. Compared to a normal sealed bottom bracket the GXP system is light and simple. A little grease, a specialised tool to tighten it up and a few re-adjustments and yet another job the queen doesn't know about. I'm really happy with the cranks. Look good on the bike, smooth and very light (carbon fibre). I did notice the come very close to rubbing on the chain stay - I'll put some protective stickers over it.

Next it was onto the head set. Remember the headset looks like a small gold cylinder....

 

Well, I am holding it carefully - it is actually made up of about 15 bits, caps, cups, washers etc. etc. When mounted on the bike it sits above and below the steerer tube, above and below the handlebars etc.. It basically holds it all together.

Firstly, inserting the top and bottom cups into the steerer tube. Now it is recommended to machine the top and bottom of the tube so the surfaces are perfectly parallel, but as this is a new frame from a respected manufacturer, I took the assumption they already did this. The cups sit EXTREMELY tightly into the steerer tube, and you are meant to use a special vice like tool to put them in.... For fear of torment and ridicule, I am NOT going to tell you how I got them in...

 
Then, to give the front end perspective, and allow me to put on most of the other headset components (including top and bottom bearing runs), I mounted the forks, and put the stem on, lightly tightened, to hold it all together. I put aside the remaining parts of the headset still to be put on (such as the top cap). Now, there are several things wrong with this photo, namely I have not yet cut the fork steerer to size, nor are there any spacers between the top cup and stem and worst, the whole thing is not tightened. BUT, what do you think of the gold bling against the blue frame? Saucy?

 

To finish the day, I fitted the wheels to the frame to make me feel I had at least made some progress on the build. Unfortunately, I discovered I forgot to order a skewer to hold the rear wheel in place; my downhill frankenbike contributed his until I sort one...

 

 



I plan to crack on next with the handlebars - so I can start assembling all the controls (brakes, gears, lock out etc...).

Over and out,
Justin.

Well let the build begin...

...Such was the commencement of my build. After getting the tools out and work stand setup, I proceeded to the first (and probably easiest job) putting the rotors for the brakes on. Remember now, 160mm rotor for the front and 140mm for the back (just like a car or motor bike, the front bears the brunt of braking so you need something stronger on the front). So after screwing in 12 most fuckingly annoying star screws, guess which air-head put them on the wrong wheels... So, unscrew 12 star screws and screw in correctly. That's 36 screwing actions, when only 12 was needed. Douche bag.

Only a few minutes after that, I realised a mistake I made with the stem and handlebar. Stem hole = 31.8mm, handlebar, 25.4mm. Douche bag, again.

Here was my problem:

And here was my solution:

Shims. Upon further inquiry with some of my less mentally challenged friends, I found out that the larger stem is actually not so bad as the 31.8mm is becoming more standard than the 25.4mm. Had I not got the shims, my options were replace the handlebars (didn't want to as I like the ones I got) or new stem (not an option as the smaller diameter stem wasn't available).

..by the way, ever wondered why they are called handlebars? It's just one bar, so it should be the "handlebar". Yep, care factor zero right?

Anyway, there were a couple of other bits I needed to add as well, rim tape for the inside of the rims, and I forgot the stem spacers (but of course, I had to get these in gold too). Stem spacers form part of the stem/headset and I will basically use these to get the right angle up front... you will get it when I blog that bit later.

(Note that the shims won't actually be that visible unlike the gold spacers so don't worry, I haven't destroyed the awesome bling-ness of this build).

So anyway, here are a few pictures so you can see where I am up to thus far.

Firstly, bike frame on the work-stand (excuse the mess, in particularly my most fantastically crappy commuter behind it):

I started with the wheels, (and the dreaded rotors applied with the 12 star screws put on this planet just to piss me off). Here is the rear wheel with the rotor in place and cassette attached to the rear hub. The rear cassette has a nice little locking screw to hold it all in place. I had to really jiggle the cassette into place - first couple of tries there was some give that would have been noticeable while riding.

 

 

 So I did a little more in this build session, but this is about all I can be bothered blogging right now, so TS.

 

Progressive costs:

Actual: $3332.66
Estimated: $3407.39
If RRP: $5617.25

Until next time,

Justin. 

..And so it goes

Greetings those desperately addicted to my blog, and those who pretend they aren't....

Well people, coming to a close is the purchasing phase of this build. I will hold off on discussing costs because I am sure I will need to do emergency runs to the bike shop for little bits and pieces I forgot (two things I already know I need is a rear skewer to hold the back wheel on and some frame adhesive to protect the paint work from rubbing cables etc...).

But basically, here is where I am at:

Progressive costs:

Actual: $3300.03
Estimated: $3387.39
If RRP: $5577.54

Now to be fair, the "RRP" value is very conservative, I doubt anyone would pay this ESPECIALLY if this bike was sold as one complete unit. However, given the componentry, I would say brand new, it would be around the $4200 mark, so I think I did save money. So, for all you mountain bikers out there, I'd be interested to know your thoughts. Leave me a comment on what you think it would have been worth. Here is the build list:



And here is what a bike in bits looks like....

Keepin' it real,
Justin.

Do you like my Nob...

..by Nic's?

Nobby Nic's. A type of tyre. What were you thinking? Was your brain in the gutter. Again? Seriously, I need to finds me a more mature reader base?!

Yet another rather important part of the build. A set of tyres. Schwalbe Nobby Nic. Schwalbe seem to virtually own the tyre market for mountain biking, which is weird, because not so long ago they were really only known for their road tyres. I think some other manufacturer gave them some stick about making crappy mountain bike tyres not long ago. Because they have come out swinging. Hard. With a fantastically named line up of tyres such as the "Rocket Ron" the "Dirty Dan" or the "Hans Damf" it is a sin to look past them.

They have a tyre for every terrain, rider type, condition and wheel size. They will probably start making condom's soon. Imagine... "Hey babe, I'm feeling like a Dirty Dan tonight", "Oh no, please I want that Nobby Nic this evening"... and yeah, you know how the rest would go...

So here are the weapons of choice...

 

So what tyres does one choose on their bike? Oh my gosh. The options are endless and it all comes down to personal preference and the type of rider you are. Some prefer the "sticks like snot to a sock" grip, but others prefer the low rolling resistance of a less grippy tyre. Some even have different tyres for different rides (especially racing). Others look for weight, tubeless and so on. Some people cannot even find the perfect tyre so fit different types up front and down the back.

 

I tried a set of Hans Damps recently. Stuck fantastically, and gave me loads of warning when they were going to let go. However, after feeling great about a ride on them one morning, I saw my pace was like a hung-over snail. It was only recently I tried a Nobby Nic on the Giant and was quite happy with them. 2.3 inch width, a little more skewed towards grip but a lot less rolling resistance than the Hans Damf, I am quite happy with them and I think they will be a sweet spot option on the Heckler. I got them at a reduced price, but on the scale of tyres they are on the pointy end.

 

Progressive costs:

Actual: $3300.03
Estimated: $3387.39
If RRP: $5577.54

 

 

Heckle me oh so good,

Justin.

Whoopsie!

...Nearly forgot this little critter. He was hiding in the bottom of my box of goodies.

Front derailleur. 2 Speed and of course, SRAM X0. Interestingly, on my Giant, despite all the running gear being SRAM, the front derailleur is a Shimano. There is not a great deal of complexity to the front derailleur, but I'll see if I notice any difference at all with the SRAM (highly unlikely).

Progressive costs:
Actual: $3166.41
Estimated: $3247.39
If RRP: $5404.58

These aren't the droids your looking for,
Justin.

ShimaOHNOOO!!!!!

Well, this little lemming has committed a sin of epic proportions.

Presenting exhibit A....

Shimano M530 pedals. SHIMANO! A POX ON THEE! I feel so dirty. Yes folks, this staunchly SRAM man has gone out and bought a set of Shimano SDP pedals. I guess in a way it is ok. Pedals are very much a consumable part on a mountain bike and I will enjoy banging, scratching them and just generally treating them like shit.

I've always been happy with the SPD clip-in system that Shimano came up with. And you can nearly always find Shimano pedals on special. These are $60 and I picked them up for ~$28. These are a low to mid range set. For the type of riding I do, I don't see much point in getting top of the line pedals. They get banged up, and replaced eventually. Even though they are clip-in's I like to get the platform pedals (as different from "egg-beaters" or pedals just with the clip). I find it is handy if you want to pedal unclipped for a bit (for example for a technical downhill section of track).

Progressive costs:
Actual: $3106.41
Estimated: $3167.39
If RRP: $5324.58

Yeeeah, poppin' taaags!
Justin.

26 + 29 = 27.5

...or 650b.

Don't argue with me. Remember the rules:

Rule No 1: Justin is always right,
Rule No 2: If Justin is wrong, refer to rule number 1.

So, if you are a mountain biker, and you are not familiar with the war that is 26'ers vs 29'ers, then you have been living under a wet slimy rock. It is a debate on wheel size that has divided the mountain bike world.

Personally, while 29'ers are faster. I don't like them (spoken with a severe P. Hanson twang). They also struggle on the more rugged terrain and fast technical downhills).

That said, I get why 29'ers have become so popular. Of all the modern technology in bikes, that you'd swear was pulled from an F1 car only a few years ago, bizarrely, wheels were the last things to undergo a "game changer" in design. This is truly bizarre, given that wheels are so important on a bike... duhhh! The 26 inch wheel was actually a de-facto standard. Once upon a time, a group of guys thought to give downhill/offroad biking a real go. But all wheels at the time were designed for the road. The only wheels they could find that were fat and durable enough for mountain bike riding were off those old-skool roadster style bikes....wheel size... 26inch. Born then was mountain biking and a standard that for decades no one thought to question.

But times change. The rules have changed and the war is on.

...Presenting the 650b (or "27.5") to put an end to the argument.

One wheel to rule them all,
One wheel to find them,
One wheel to bring them all
and in the darkness bind them.

Enter stage right, specimen A the Santa Cruz Bronson.

Enter stage left, specimen B, the Ibis Mojo HD-R

 



People, mark my words, the following will happen:

- 650b will be the new wheel standard;
- 26inch wheels will be around for quite a while yet, but will die out;
- Manufacturers will make cross compatible frames and forks to allow you to race on your 29'ers, but whack on the 650's for a huck around your favourite track. Or, vice versa, a 26 and 27.5 compatible version.

So, I find myself building up a 26inch bike, which for now is fine. Remember that this is a project build for me. I "had" every intention of buying a new "complete" bike. However, as this project has progressed, I have realised that the build is quite high end and most of the parts, bar the forks and wheels. So I may find myself migrating parts off the Heckler onto a 650b.

I'm so clever..
Justin.

My other great passion...

Allow me to digress for a moment, if you will, from the core theme of this blog.

It's been a big week news wise in Australia. New South Wales got dicked by Queensland in the State or Origin. We also witnessed a leadership change and the appalling back-stabbing and childish revenge that came with it in what cannot fairly be classified as "our" Australian Government. But, something far far FAR more important happened.

Mark Webber retired from Formula 1.

http://www.smh.com.au/sport/motorsport/webber-on-last-lap-in-f1-after-signing-for-porsche-20130627-2ozs1.html


Ah Mark, you have your critics and for sure you have frustrated the hell out of me, but I have loved following you in each and every race, through the Minardi, Jag, Williams and of course, the RBR years. I am certainly not going to say you were the greatest. But you were my favourite and as this is MY blog that is all that matters :-)

I hope the rest of this year is a memorable one for you.

That's all I have to say about that right now,
Justin.

It's a bling fest!!!

..even MORE bling!

Check these puppies out. Mavic 717's on Hope Pro 2 Hubs. How fantastically will these go with the head set & stem (see previous posts).

For those mountain bikers out there, we all know you can hear a hope hub coming from a mile away with that lovely free-wheeling "zzzzzzzzzz" sound. Now, you will know that it is me coming. Mwhahahaha!

As with the stem and head set, bling is bling. But this bling is also the bomb. Hope. Top shelf brand, 'nuff said.

Now, the wheels fall into the same category as the forks of "hope"lessly difficult item to get (pun intended - put in inverted commas just to accentuate where in that sentence the pun occurred - the author of course assuming his reading population is just as slow as himself). Wheel sets actually quite often come on sale, but it was finding the ones I wanted that was hard. You see, I was already targeting the gold components, and stuff made by Hub, rarely comes on sale. Additionally, I specifically wanted the 15mm through axle and most of what I was finding was non-convertible 9mm or 20mm.  A learnered friend advised me the hope hubs are cross-compatible - giving me the option of changing in future. The Rims were a little easier to decide on, just as long as they were light-ish and strong was acceptable.

Anyhooo, after much searching I eventually came across these babies at a very respectable price. I was also being careful to contain costs with the wheels for another little future idea is brewing.... More on that later.

Now, purchasing these wheels could in some ways be construed as cheating. If I was really building this bike from scratch, I would have purchased all the components that make up the wheels (mainly the hubs, the spokes and the rims) separately. But as anyone that has tried it can attest to, building wheels is an absolute bitch of a job and one that is usually only perfected after repeated attempts). Additionally, most of the MTB sites offer custom or 'pre-built" wheel configurations - since you are purchasing all the bits, they throw in the build as well.

Here ends this blog entry. May I re-direct your attention to the photo's of the wheels and bask in their glorious glory.

Progressive costs:
Actual: $3078.62
Estimated: $3067.39
If RRP: $5264.6

Ride on...
Justin.

I "Hope" you like this one...

...more Hope.

...more gold.

...more bling.

...more awesomeness for the bike.

This is a stem. It's pretty straight forward. It's for connecting/mounting your handlebars to the steerer/frame.

Once on the bike it will pretty much look like the stem and head set (see previous post) are one and the same component. Hence the importance of going with the same brand to make sure the colour is coded across the components.

Again, this isn't just about bling. Hope are a top shelf, highly regarded brand in the biking world. Again, light & strong. Surprising considering it is made in the UK... ;-) I did manage to score a discount on this component, about 34% off normal price. Still on the more pricey side of the scale of stem options/brands.

Stem has a 90mm length which is pretty standard. You probably can't quite see it in the photo but there is actually an inclining angle from the vertical (steerer mount) to the horizontal (handlebar mount) holes; 10 degrees for those keeping score. This is a bit more of an all-mountain/free-ride configuration (to sit you up a little more on the bike). This is distinct from a zero angle (flat) stem, common on a cross-country bike. Heaven-forbid I be confused with a cross country rider! (sorry to my cross country brethren, for like humans and apes, we are after-all only a few DNA strands different!).

Progressive costs:
Actual: $2671.34
Estimated: $2567.39
If RRP: $4804.82

May the force be with you,
Justin

I got Head!!...

...Set.

Bahhhh, head out of the gutter readers!

This is a head set. It's gold. It's bling. It's top shelf stuff. I didn't get it on special. I just wanted it.

In fact, I ultimately paid more than what I should have. I originally purchased a silver Cane Creek head set, as it was like $24, reduced from $90. Alas, it turned up, weighed half of what the bike would have anyway and didn't come with the top cap (re-reading the order, it did say that). My sorry, lame-ass excuse here is that I got the Cane Creek head set very early on the piece before I realised the hidden complexity of this build-you-own-bike malarkey.

So, Hope. English made. This is one of 3 Hope components that will find their way on the Heckler - next two ordered. Delivery pending. Stay tuned.

So a head set is what I guess "mounts" the front forks to the frame, provides a bearing race for smooth steering and tightens the whole lot up. A stem will be needed to connect the handlebars. The headset doesn't actually look like this on the bike, the top half sits above the steering tube on the frame and the bottom mounts below. If you don't know what I am on about... meh, wait for the final pictures, it'll all make sense.

By the way, sorry if you think this whole process in taking a while. Firstly, it takes time to source everything, and secondly, a small one of life's annoyances is getting in the way. Work.

Progressive costs:
Actual: $2593.82
Estimated: $2487.39
If RRP: $4687.07

Bite me,
Justin.